My love of wine country remains constant no matter how old I become, no matter what the state. Rolling hills covered with elegant rows of vines, stretched out in wait, each season of growth bringing an array of natural beauty. California is epic in staging and selection of varietals.

Settled in at the Ukiah Elks Lodge, plans are to spend the next two nights relaxing, sleeping late each morning and exploring a few hours each day.

Our first venture, The City of Ten Thousand Buddha’s, the Buddhist University. We had planned to have lunch but the restaurant is closed on Tuesdays, as are many of the restaurants in the city of Ukiah. Walking through the university was peaceful with passing Monks smiling and nodding. The sound of mini voices caught our attention and we watched children at the lower school play as we made our way to the Temple.

We were invited in by several Monks and sat listening to foreign chanting and tinkling chimes before exiting the side door to watch the ostentation of peacocks presenting themselves to possible mates outside the Temple.

Back to the registration office where the museum is located, a peek at the gift shop to purchase an eternal luck talisman and home to LilyPad.

Real Goods, a solar living hands on workshop and sustainability specialty store, was a second visit for me. Daughter and I shopped at this little hippie haven when we drove up the coast several years ago. Full of original handmade items and unusual natural products, it is a relaxed shopping experience and one that even John enjoyed.

Weird reclaimed pill bottle bathroom enclosures and reclaimed toilet tank top walls

Tiny house model

Artistically fashioned drinking fountains

We stopped in at the Sho Ka Wah Casino to try our luck. Five dollars in The Wizard of Oz interactive slot machine and without even having two ruby red shoes to click together, after 20 minutes, I left with twenty dollars.

The long and winding road that led to the Montgomery Woods State Reserve, with its hairpin turns and camel hump bumps, ended in disappointment. Upon arrival multiple signs stated “no dogs on trails” and KatieBug came along with us so we got out, stretched our legs, took one picture and slowly made our way back to civilization.

I took a breather from the bouncing twisting road at the top of the mountain, excellent Kodak moment opportunity.

Luckily we were traveling leisurely down the road when wild turkeys popped out of the brush and dashed across. A no traffic roadway, I stood on the middle yellow line to capture the gobblers.

Ever expanding along highway 101 are the wineries. Saracina Winery, our sample sip choice, is a certified organic winery. It was named after a centuries old farmhouse and vineyards in Tuscany where the owners spent their honeymoon in late 1990’s. It also produces olive oil and 100 year old olive trees mark the path to the entrance walk as we made our way to the tasting room.

Paula, our wine guide, poured our sips and chatted sociably while we tasted. She let us peek into the mountain cave where the barrels of wine are stored. After we picked a wine and olive oil to take with us, we paused under the weeping willows to enjoy the view.

The remarkable orangey flaming branches flavoring the scenic view are Italian Weeping Willows.

At the Elks Lodge RV site, just outside our door, California was erecting a cell phone tower tree. We watched them put limb after limb in place, like one does with a fake Christmas tree. Does California think people are fooled into believing they are real trees? Seems like a lot of money to spend on appearances and wishful thinking when the state is near bankrupt.

Hubby and I dined with my aunt for one last lunch at Brent’s, the amazing Jewish deli in Northridge, before leaving town. I’m a fan of pea soup and Brent’s makes a phenomenal bowl, full of perfect chunks of carrots, slivers of onion and tender pulled pork all suspended in smooth creamy peas. Tastes like it should cure all your ails. When they say “visualize whirled peas” my thoughts go directly to Brent’s pea soup.

And their brownies are so moist and chocolaty they are hard to resist. Our waitress asked if we wanted male or female. Looking quizzical at her, it took me a few seconds to understand, then selected female (no nuts).

Gliding past colossal power windmills rapidly spinning from the brisk wind, through California’s fertile farm lands watching field hands pick bright red strawberries and end todays travel at the Ocean.

Happy are the lungs that breathe in briny breezes. Not much of a beach person as are John and KatieBug but Oceano Elks Lodge is just what the doctor ordered. One block from the beach, sites are not much to look at but quiet, level, with minimal hook-ups and oh so reasonable.

The coast has been pounded with much needed rain for the last week leaving the air renewed and pollution free. A good recuperation landing for the next few days. We have a nice group of neighbors giving us a sense of safety. I’m sure John is getting tired of driving full time but asthma meds and driving do not equal safety behind the wheel so if I am to drive, wellness must arrive.

A quick stop at the wharf for a few minutes to take in the salty sea air and watch some sunset surfers before turning in for the night.

I am beginning to feel more comfortable living on 30 amps which is necessary when staying at Elks Lodges throughout California. It takes thought, something you don’t have to do when living in sticks and bricks, to remember to turn off the a/c when using the microwave or turn the TV off when it is warm outside so it does not set off the center a/c unnecessarily and blow the fuses. It’s the myriad of inconsiderable changes in living habits that drive you slightly batty when full timing.

Beach, boardwalk, butterflies and a few new bottles of wine. First day in weeks that my lungs have taken in air without stress. A few hours outside our box on wheels was spent at a local winery tasting wine

breathing in the medicinal benefits of giant wild Eucalyptus trees that thrive along the coast while viewing migrating butterflies munching on their leaves

and a slow walk along the boardwalk to enjoy a fresh clam chowder filled sour dough bowl at Splash Café for lunch.

All packed away and ready to roll on to Santa Clara, my childhood stomping grounds, first thing in the morning.

With one exception, a short walk in the Winchester Mystery House gardens, I stayed indoors for this multi-day pause near my home town. One quick visit to my aunts for lunch and back to LilyPad to rest for the night, then a quiet stroll through the gardens I loved as a child. I thought it odd that John had never been to the House or gardens so I was eager to share the experience with my traveling-through-life partner.

The Winchester Mystery House was a few blocks from the home where I grew up. My uncle and several family friends knew Mrs. Winchesters niece, to whom everything was left. For the younger me, the gardens were a much anticipated visit and when our children visited their grandmother, they too walked through the gardens.

We all had seen the sprawling ostentatious mansion of 6 kitchens, 13 bathrooms, 47 fireplaces, 47 stairways, 10,000 windows (many being Tiffany stained glass) and 2,000 doors at least once and that was sufficient as eerie tags along behind you throughout the tour. Beginning as an eight room farm house when purchased in 1884, it grew to seven stories and 160 rooms at the time of Mrs. Winchesters death in September of 1922.

The haunting tale of the House began with the personal tragedies borne by Mrs. Winchester after the deaths of her baby daughter, and years later, her husband. It also houses the story of the legendary Winchester rifle, “The Gun That Won The West”. If you saw Stephen King’s 2002 thriller, “Rose Red”, it was based on Mrs. Winchester and her haunted San Jose house. Ghost sightings are eagerly sought after and sometimes rewarded during the Houses night touring and Basement Tours.

Amazing, but in no way mysterious, was the sustainability of the mansion at that time in history.  A read through the web site information provides an informative stride through the house that spirits built.

For an excellent account of the mysterious yet generous millionaire that was Mrs. Sarah Winchester, visit their website and watch the video narrated by Miss Lillian Gish, it’s my favorite. http://winchestermysteryhouse.com/videogallery.cfm

Just before bed I noticed LilyPad was shaking and so was my computer screen.  I asked John if we were parked next to the train tracks again and he said it was probably an earthquake.  I laughed, having been in many as a youngster and not believing we would ever experience one while traveling through California.  Tonight on the news it was reported that our area had been shaken by a 6.9 earthquake.  John took it like a pro, this being his first.  I found it to be a strange sensation and not as exciting in my 60’s as it was in my tweens and teens.  We’ll pass on any others, thank you very much.

On our trips back and forth to our current home, John had been contemplating this little adobe building with a junk car lot out front, located just across from Fort Davis. He finally convinced me to stop for a look-see. I stayed by the door until the first dust wave from the road shrouded me, then stayed in Ribbit until he was finished viewing the crawly wiggling creatures. Buzz, the front door character and acting docent, was extremely knowledgeable of his critters and John said they looked well cared for and happy…a mystery to me how snakes, spiders and lizards show happiness.

Before the gusts of dust knocked the wind out of my sails, we were able to pop into the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center and Botanical Gardens. Marked it on our Bucket List for a hike next time through the area.

A late breakfast at our favorite spot, The Fort Davis Drug Store, somewhat disappointing due to an annoying server. We kept requesting for her to ask the cook if he would make John’s favorite breakfast, 4 eggs over easy and a hamburger patty, but she kept giving strange excuses. The hamburger would leave raw juice on the grill, if we cooked it together you would get sick, etc. Couldn’t understand her excuses as they offered, being cooked on that same grill, steak, pork chops and sausage. Then she switched to telling us “I’ll get in trouble for asking”. After 10 minutes, she finally left, came back and told us the cook said he would do it “just this one time”. Strange, no problems doing so several times last year, so why the stink this year? Guess they don’t need the business so we shall eat at the Lodge next year.

A quick and final trip to their restrooms to get a picture of their unusual custom made bathroom sinks, the fancy wooden cabinet surround one being the woman’s.

Spent the next few days inside waiting for the asthma meds to do their magic. Sadly, no Cowboy Poetry Festival or Cacti Garden stroll for me this year.

Began prepping for our next overnight, El Paso, to stock up on a few groceries. For as much as I love Fort Davis, it is lacking in foods of originality, even though this years offerings at the small grocery were better than last.

Taking a different route to El Paso this year, over the Wild Rose Pass. Within the first 10 miles I began to see red puffs stuck to black spindly branched plants. After passing the fifth flowered bush I asked John to stop. I was so excited and couldn’t believe they were real! First look was from the road and then I notice something was not quite right.

Some Texan spent a lot of time playing a joke on tourists…Wild Roses as fake as a three dollar bill.

Our overnight was another flat dusty space but with double the room of the usual parking lot types. Great for a stopover but nothing more.

Plugged our noses as we hustled passed the stock yards…phew, stinky…how do their neighbors stand the smell? Through flat sandy desert, over hills covered with giant boulders stacked into mountains, back to flat lands and we rolled into Casa Grande, AZ for the night. Purported to be a top rated RV “resort”, upon arrival we confirmed that it indeed fit the bill. Although we were staying in the overflow area, we took a look and for living accommodations, it had more amenities and activities than a medium size city. We arrived in time to watch the sun set.

Next few nights were spent in Indio, CA squished between a palm tree and our neighbor’s porch. Couldn’t put out our main slide without pushing over their fruit trees. I have begun adding Wal-Mart to my daily “I’m Thankful For” list as they transferred asthma meds post haste to Indio and I began a new drug regiment tonight.

I love dates, all kinds, but especially the kind you eat, so a Shields Date Garden stop was a no-brainer. Got to love the way Floyd and Bess Shields promoted their date business with the delightfully catchy movie name, Romance and Sex Life of the Date…in 1924, no less! Having no experience growing/harvesting dates, they began the challenging business after moving to the desert.

It is said that dates are the oldest known cultivated tree crop and one of the least understood of all fruits produced. It is also the most expensive crop to produce with many man hours given to growth, grooming and harvesting.

Every time you plant a date seed, a new kind of date is originated. The only way to perpetuate a variety is to propagate its offshoots. A date palm produces, at its base, 5-25 offshoots during their first 10 to 15 years of life. The offshoots are removed 3 to 5 years after attachment. Palms are planted 48 females to one male per acre and each male palm can produce enough pollen for 39 female trees. After a female offshoot is planted, it will be 5 years before the first commercial crop of 30 or 40 pounds are produced and full production will not be reached until sometime during the 10^th to 15^th year after planting. Tough start up!

Dates are reached by climbing up ladders that are permanently attached to the trees because the female date blooms must be pollinated by hand as nature made no adequate provisions. Workers must climb up the male tree, shake off the powder and collect the pollen, take it up the female tree and coat the female flowers for the dates to mature.

The work is nowhere near finished as the flower bunches must be thinned, tied to strong branches and covered so that the fruit does not get wet. The natives of the old world say “A date palm must have its feet in the waters and its head in the fires of Heaven”. The trees must be kept in water at all times, while the fruits are covered with water proof covers so they are not ruined from rain.

Shields Date Garden trees are 15-90 years old and the fruit they produce is the sweetest, moistest, yummiest I have ever tasted. A rare treat and I made myself sick tasting every single sample date type on the counter along with some samples of date cookies, breads and cakes. When we had our fill, we entered the retro theater and watched the 50’s date movie before taking a short walk through the Gardens.

We read on TripAdvisor that the Gardens were a religious spot, not connected to the date business, but still a nice way to digest after eating so many dates. Because they freeze well, I bought several boxes, but I’m not sure they are going to make it out of California!

We are parked at the Canoga Park Elks Lodge in CA for the next week. Not liking the dusty bounce down the road while still fighting lung problems so we shall stop moving and hope the Los Angeles rain storms will wash away the dusty air pollution without floating us out to sea. While 500 square feet may be fine for just sleeping, when confined for extended recuperation, it can bring mind numbing boredom, especially when alone.

Fort Stockton is our overnight. Couldn’t resist stopping for a Kodak moment with the Road Runner statue that marks the town. Next step, set up camp.

RV park loosely describes this dusty field, about 10 acres of partially paved, partially graveled but level space. Wide open except for the power poles with sagging wires connecting utilities to sites, mostly housing full time residents, we were advised by Forum friends to stay clear of their shower rooms so it was a relief to find a new Flying J with spotless showers up the road a ways.

Leaving Wal-Mart, we were greeted by a striking buttery moon rising above the hills. Tried in vain to capture it, but not one picture was worth sharing…back to Nikon For Dummies. Returned to LilyPad happily hooked up to 50 amp with cable TV, shades down, world shut out, all is quiet.

Things that go “bump” in the night mooch around West Texas Hill Country. The moochers are often brought in by “there’s always one” stupid camper ignoring direct instructions to keep edibles inside cars/RV’s. Javelinas boldly go where they are uninvited, invading campgrounds waving dagger sharp tusks, Black Bear stroll off-road looking for munchies, mountain lions trail down from the hills stalking mini meals, snakes crawl out of the ground soaking up the afternoon sun and bugs buzz around zeroing in on blood of any sort…it’s a jungle out here!

Arrived in the high desert of the Trans-Pecos, far West Texas, located between Davis Mountains and Big Bend National Park. Our stay for the next few nights is Davis Mountain State Park.

After the park host suggested a ride up to Skyline Drive to see the sunset, we drove up again for the sunrise.  That sunrise comes darn early!

West Texas has its own marque of beauty. The highway is rolling with green Joshua Trees and cacti sprouting up between the black scrub and wheat colored dead grasses subsidizing the desert scene.

Back at the camp, the new bird viewing area caught our attention and we stopped to check it out.  Yep, lots of birds.

In nearby Marfa, El Paisano Hotel, a Spanish Baroque style built in the 1930’s for the expected oil boom that never materialized, is stuffed with little curio/art shops.

Giant, from Edna Ferber’s novel, was filmed in this part of the country. Movie stars Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, James Dean, Sal Mineo and Jane Withers, among others, were guests while they were filming and it served as the headquarters for Warner Brothers film crew of more than 300 in1955 with the completion of the movie in 1956. After its decline in the 70’s, it was bought and converted into timeshare condo’s, abandoned and foreclosed. In 2001, for $185,000. it was purchased, renovated and 33 rooms were reopened as a hotel.

Marfa, founded in the early 1880’s as a railroad water stop, was named “Marfa” after Marfa Strogoff, a character in the Jules Vern novel Michael Strogoff. As with many water stops along new railways, it too evolved into a new settlement.

Presidio County courthouse in Marfa, built in 1886 in Second Empire style of stone and brick quarried in Marfa, interesting but appears an odd structural design for the Wild West.

Halfway between Marfa and Alpine on US 90 is the viewing area for the mysterious Marfa Lights. Native Americans knew about the lights long before the first recorded sightings in 1883 by Robert Reed Ellison and cowhands camped at Mitchell Flats. Ellison thought, at first, it might be Apaches but no evidence of an Apache encampment was found. Wagon trains traveling along the Chihuahuya Trail reported seeing unexplained lights in the mid-19^th century.

The viewing area, designed by Marfa High School Gifted and Talented students with the help of TXDOT, is an impressive showcase for viewing and someday we will return to celebrate the mystery at the Marfa Lights Festival in September on Labor Day Weekend and perchance view the night time appearing lights.

Met up with some of our Tiffin family traveling from Quartzsite, AZ, they on their way to other parts of TX, we on our way to NM, AZ,CA and on to our Bowl and Pitcher work camp assignment. Had an enjoyable visit while making plans to check out Fort Davis, the incredible nighttime star display at McDonald Observatory and Big Bend Museum in Alpine.

Our trek up the mountain to the McDonald Observatory with our group of 8 began with the Twilight Program and a view of the sunset from outside the theater. Strangely, some parents felt it necessary to put bright flashing light shoes on their children’s feet, defeating the purpose of star observation in a light free atmosphere. The guides quickly covered each foot with removable tape, repeated the “no flashlights” request and we walked up to the 5 telescopes in a dark night sky with only a few dim red glows from ports near the walkway.

The telescopes offered a magnificent view of a galaxy, Jupiter and three of its moons and star clusters. Crisp clear mild weather with stars shining as bright as, well…stars. Thoroughly enjoyable night, but again, Nikon For Dummies didn’t help filming night stars.

Our group spent the morning in Fort Davis, an example of an Indian Wars’ military post of 1854. The strategically located position was used to protect emigrants, mail coaches and freight wagons on the Trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio/El Paso Road and on the Chihuahua Trail.

A tidbit of info I found interesting was that in 1859, US Secretary of War Jefferson Davis convinced congress, at a cost of $30,000.00, to import 2 dozen camels to Fort Davis to haul supplies instead of mules or oxen. Known as the U.S. Camel Corps, the experiment failed as the Army declined to adopt them for military use. Even though they were able to haul 400 pounds of supplies, climb steep mountains where horses had difficulties and go for days without water, horses were frightened of the peculiar animals and their unpleasant disposition made them difficult to manage. By the time the Civil War began, the project was abandoned, many of the camels going to circuses with some escaping into the wild. The last know siting of wild camels was in 1941 near Douglas, TX.

After the Civil War, the town of Fort Davis became the most important in the Trans-Pecos country, reopening in 1866 to house an Act of Congress mandated increase of “colored men”, nearly 500 called Buffalo Soldiers, before being abandoned in the early 1890’s and returned to the private sector. The fort became Fort Davis National Historic Site in 1966.

Big Bend Museum in Alpine is a small but mightily informational museum located on the campus of Sul Ross State University. What this lovely campus is doing in the middle of the dusty dead weeds territory of West Texas seems a glitch in the system. Free, the price we look for when seeking an afternoon activity, is remarkable considering the inclusions. From maps of the area to video’s of dinosaurs and prehistoric sea life forms that cover the Big Bend valley floor to Texas/Mexico past wars and relationships to artifacts of the local Indians and their pictographs all packaged nicely in easy to understand video’s and plaques with usefully placed benches for respite.

Headed back to Fort Davis from Alpine, John spied a herd of deer in someone’s yard and got a nice photo. It was the only wild things, other than small crawly and wiggly ones, that we saw during our stay.

Communal bar-b-q with the group and until-we-meet-agains before turning in for the night.

Our last full day in The Woodlands is spent cleaning and packing stray accoutrements purchased for the slow journey North and a hasty side trip to Trinity, TX to check out the possibility of a TX winter work camp position for next year. Turned out to be a most certainly worth no consideration for a work camp environment so we shall try, try again. Maybe Huntsville State Park.

Frost heaves, Texas style, along Hw 290 to Austin slowed our journey just before Giddings where you best cool your jets anyway or the local law enforcement officers will stop to ticket, or if you’re lucky, just warn you to slow down. Spent the night at La Hacienda RV Resort and Cabins in Austin and quickly added it to our more-nights-here-please for a future return.

La Hacienda had neat and clean everything…putting green, large clubhouse, pool, free morning coffee at the office,

Huge off leash dog park,

Newer washer/dryers, ample sized toilet/shower/sink bathrooms, shade trees by the cabins which were speckled throughout the park,

Lots of snowbirds but the grounds are tidy, a comfortable “homey” feel. Small original touches like bird houses nailed on or hanging from almost every tree and a picnic park above the river.

Love Austin and will snatch up time here in any quantities given, even if just for one fleeting night. So worth staying up way past both of our bedtimes for a sprint through the magnificent new Whole Foods Market located in the new shopping area, Domain.

We passed through Johnson City of past President Lyndon B. Johnson fame. A delightful little town with a variety of Junque shops and tiny hole-in-the-wall diners. LBJ Ranch, inside Lyndon Johnson National Historical Park where he was born, lived, died and was buried, was a point of interest and will be added to our Bucket List for next time around.

Our drive to Kerrville for two nights stay at Buckhorn RV Resort was uneventful. John was impressed with the Resort.  Me?  Not so much so.

Casita’s for Class A rigs to lease located across the bridge, adults only gym

Outdoor bar with drink specials, Family/Adult Only pools and shower houses

Large off leash dog park and children’s play area across the bridge, spacious entrance but exorbitant nightly rates, sites are not that staggered and feel cramped, WiFi is spotty until about 11:00pm, located very near huge power lines and I can clearly see/hear the trucks on IH-10.

Biggest redeeming quality for me was the Hill Country wildlife next door to the Resort.  Lots of events and socials happening but for a TX Resort, I didn’t quite feel at home.

Yea side trips! The Coming King Sculpture Prayer Garden loomed off to the right as we made our way to Buckhorn RV Resort and called for us to return…so we did.

You can see that 77.7’ tall hollow Coming King Cross from miles away, its location being the same latitude as Israel. Although the Garden is not complete, we basked in its perfect combination of tranquility and inspiration.

From the entrance upwards to the mountain where the gigantic cross is planted, currently stone lined and gravel road, is structured with areas soon to be filled with plants and flowers, formed in a vast 100 yard long cross embracing the earth.

Fisher of Men

The Great Commission

Several brass sculptures from noted Christian artists Beverly Paddleford of Lander WY, David Broussard of Dallas TX and Max Greiner Jr. of Kerrville TX adorn the area but wherever you gaze, the cross has a mighty presence.

Mary, Mother of Jesus

It Is Finished

Drove into the town of Kerrville seeking Wal-Mart. Block after block of metal roofs on every store and business along our route. Even the beautiful early 19^th century cream colored stone buildings are topped with the stuff. Authenticity is moved aside to accommodate lower cooling bills and more reasonable replacement costs. Not that I have a problem with being environmentally frugal…but really…does every single business roof and government building roof in Kerrville need to be covered with metal? Seems someone was able to convince the whole town to throw authenticity out the window when it came to roof restoration.

Unwilling to continue living with our overflowing disheveled quarters, John has agreed to add and reconfigure some of the current cabinetry. Enter TJ, the cabinet maker for Tiffin, doing a little work on the side.

Monday he will remove our current dining cabinet and recut it to fit our kitchen side slide area.

When he removes and remakes our current desk, it will accommodate our wine and what is left of our paper files.

The new dining cabinet will be larger and include two computer stations eliminating the jumble of office machines in front of and around the current desk.

When finished, we will no longer have the worry of “stuff” flying across the floors when we traverse roads like California’s Interstate 5, south of Santa Nella, a major pounding and bounce-you-up-off-your-seat freeway.

Moving out and redistributing our “stuff” for the build, KatieBug explored inside every empty cabinet anticipating a new den for herself.

After the build back, still minus the dinette doors, our “stuff” is stowed away in its new compartments and we leave frost covered Red Bay.  Finished dinette doors will be shipped when complete.

Searching out Frank Lloyd Wright home plans for future living accommodations after seeing his Usonian Home but having come to the realization that I am a “stuff” being. Sadly the “stuff” gene was passed down by my paternal grandmother, the genes of my nomadic fraternal grandparents being far weaker and smothered years ago. So this life style continues and massive storage space with widespread possessions remain daydreams.

Few freeway travels on our way back to The Woodlands, we took minor Louisiana roads to enjoy the sights. Passing miniature ice skating rinks, snowcapped cotton fields and historical Frogmore Cotton Plantation and Gins, another tantalizing side trip I have added to my Bucket List. This area also being a birding paradise, bright red cardinals crisscrossed our path in flocks as we traveled along several of the Louisiana Trails Scenic Byways.

Alighting in The Woodlands for a few days we will visit family and friends before beginning our travels to Washington and Oregon for our work camp positions. Surprisingly, I am OK with the decision to continue living in our box on wheels for another year. My new mantra being “the good days will outweigh the bad”. One should always hang onto hope.

With Tiffin repairs complete, we were free to wake at our leisure and play tourist for the next few days. KatieBug tagged along with us to Florence so John and I could tour the Rosenbaum House designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.

This Usonian house, designed in 1939 as the first of Wrights middle class friendly series, was the precursor to tract homes. The word “Usonian” house, a Wright acronym for The United States of North America, was designed to feature the typical flat roof, small kitchen, overlarge living area and airy plain-Jane aesthetic of his attempt to give Americans a well-designed affordable home, complete with furnishings.

Beautifully designed, I was a little taken aback with the minimalist furnishings all made from plywood. Still remarkable, it’s walls were made of beautiful Cypress wood and other hard woods, brass hardware throughout, amazing sculptured windows bringing in natural light, copper screens on the sprawling banks of windowed doors and utilitarian storage areas. The house had radiant heat floors and fireplaces for warmth. Cooling was natural air flow from countless strategically placed screened windows and doors.

This was my first look at his 1936 Usonian prototypes. The massive structures of his designs in California, where I had seen several as a young adult, were built for the wealthy populace. I was not aware that he was interested in designing affordable homes on a massive scale for the American middle class.

The Rosenbaum’s were the sole owners and occupants of the “L” shaped home until 1999, when it was purchased by the City of Florence and restored at a cost of over $700,000. The original 1939 cost of the 1,540 square feet and furnished home was $12,000. Built as a single story, in 1948 the household grew to include four sons and Wright designed another “L” shaped 1,084 addition for $45,000. Mr. Rosenbaum’s parents lived across the street (pictured behind the house) and his father teased him relentlessly asking “when are you putting on a roof?”.

The American Institute of Architects regarded Wright as the greatest American architect of all time, while a dozen of his buildings appear on Architectural Record’s list of the 100 most important buildings of the 20^th century. Our tour guide commented that one of Wright’s plywood chairs, similar to the ones in the house, auctioned off recently for $35,000.

Pitch dark gives way to a dreary pale frost covered morning while we prep LilyPad for motorhome surgery. Tranquility has vanished and the Tiffin compound is in full swing repair or replace mode. LilyPad must be waiting by the correct bay door at 7:00 am and we must be conscious enough to communicate what is needed.

Temperatures dropped into the single digits last night so “cold morning” was the greeting on this unwelcome dawn rising. We weren’t alone in our quest for Tiffin expertise as their workforce in bays 1 to 49 were burdened with every size, shape and color of company rigs…and this is the s-l-o-w season!

Owners and their dogs waiting patiently in the customer lounge, wandering back and forth between their motorhome, a comfortable chair in the lounge and trips to the free coffee, tea and cocoa with occasional bathroom stops. Southern drawls carefully explained what could be accomplished, how long to do so, with gentle reminders of the hourly charge should you add little odds and ends to the pre-written list required before your appointment was granted. So here we sit, John, KatieBug and I, friendly chatter beginning as soon as coffee kicks in and the sleep walking turns us all into consciously awake beings.

One morning a pleasant sausage aroma floated into the campground and caused many of us to wonder from where it came. Upon asking a local, we found out that it had drifted from two blocks away, the local dog food plant…eww, gross!

Snow floated down and stayed long enough to stick to Ribbit’s windshield wipers as I followed John to Bay 2 for another day of repair. Temperatures were slated to drop into minus digits tonight and remained a strong focal point of the entire day’s chitchat.

With hopes that we will be finished today we watch multiple dozens of splotchy tan, brown and black motorhomes, looking like speeding giant slugs, making their way cautiously to the repair bays this frosty morning. We were toasty warm inside but outside the chill in the air caught our breath and turned it into clouds of steam expanding and fading into the sunrise.

Marion, our service man extraordinaire, finished up the balance of our list today so we sit waiting for Monday morning when TJ comes to rip out the old preparing for the new.

LilyPad drove us over the Natchez Trace Parkway for a second time as we made our way to Red Bay, Alabama. First section of the Trace was smooth although very narrow. Second was still narrow but full of Alaska…ruts, frost heaves and dips. Nothing along the way to stop and see so we drove straight through to Canton. The Trace was built on the path traveled by the Natchez Indians before they were run out of the area by the French but if they used the area for hunting, you couldn’t tell by today’s forested roadway. Farming fields, cows and goats were the only animals and wild things seen were black birds and vultures. Our stop for the night was Movietown RV Park in Canton, Mississippi. A blessedly uneventful night of serene sleep.

Up in the morning and drive to arrive at our fix-it, build-it, install-it, adjust-it-and-wait- along-with-120-other-Tiffin’s, Allegro Campground destination. They do have WiFi so I will, at least, be keeping up with family/friends through emails and continue our web page.

Arctic but sunny here in Red Bay. Our first night the temps dropped to a frigid 7 degrees but full hook-ups come with the campground for a price, albeit reasonable . Side trips are sure to involve bundling up before stepping outside for the next few days.  Unless it is of extreme interest to either of us, we will be remaining snugly inside Ribbit if we risk being on the road.

Restaurants come and go in Red Bay, the Tiffin town, and the office informed us that our favorite diner had closed again, this time permanently. Their ribs rivaled those of McKenzie’s Bar-B-Q in Conroe but when hard times depress the rest of the country, they devastate this small company town.

After several days inside, cabin fever snuck up and began suffocating me. Being unable to put out either of our large slides due to the icy weather, excessive togetherness resulted in a desperate plea for escape from our box on wheels and we drove to Tuscumbia, AL to tour Ivy Green, the birthplace of Helen Keller.

The home was built on a 640 acre parcel of land in1820 by David and Mary Fairfax Moore Keller, the parents of Helen’s father. The birthplace cottage is east of the main house. During the war, the house was used as a hospital. Born on June 27, 1880 in the cottage, Helen moved into the house with her parents and at 19 months old, an illness left her blind and deaf.

Her mother, the second wife of Arthur Henley Keller, was a descendant of the Adams family of New England and her ties with the wealthy New England families was what may have saved Helens life. It was Kate Adams Keller, Helens mother, who sought help from her family for her unruly, blind, deaf and uneducated seven year old. Kate’s family doctor told her, you don’t need more opinions from doctors; you need an educator for Helen. That is when educator Anne Mansfield Sullivan came to live with the Keller’s and her birth cottage was turned into her school.

The pump where she learned her first word, “water”, still stands behind the main house.

Anne lived with Helen and stayed by her side until her own eyesight made it impossible for her to guide Helen further. Helen Adams Keller, Americas first lady of courage, was an American author, political activist, world renown lecturer and the first deaf/blind person to earn a Bachelor of Arts Degree. She graduated from Radcliffe College in 1904, magna cum laude, with Anne by her side. She met every U.S. president from Grover Cleveland to Lyndon Johnson and was actively identified with The American Foundation for the blind from 1924 until her death in1968.

I was impressed with her accomplishments but it quickly turned into overwhelming awe when I watched her speech, given at the Lions Club International Convention in 1925, asking that they “render impartial assistance to all classes of the blind”. This was an amazing, determined, spirited, highly intelligent woman. It is a mystery to me why, as a teen, I was not awe struck by this incredible human being while she was still living. Guess it is true; that the teenage fairy sucks out your brain until you cross over into adulthood.

Not feeling the Willie Nelson (On The Road Again) vibe but LilyPad is screaming for attention and we must oblige. It takes nearly a week to prep and store everything for travel mode. Anyone who tells you that full timing is “easy come, easy go” either has packed very little inside their motorhome or has never attempted the adventure on a full time basis. Having Gypsy blood from my Paternal grandmother doesn’t make the stop and go travel any easier.

Our last night at Rayford Crossing RV Park was a sleepless one for me. Some local yokel was firing their shot gun off from 11:30pm to midnight-something before I finally conked out. Second night in a row…grrrrr!  Mercifully our first night on the road at Coushatta RV Resort in Kinder, Louisiana was a surrounding of peaceful silence throughout the night.

Two nights spent bordering the Mississippi River and traversing between Vidalia Louisiana and Natchez Mississippi to check out the not-to-miss sights. The Natchez Visitors Center was closed but was first on our list come morning.

Driving through town on the way to the cemetery, we noticed this interesting attempt at religious yard art.

John drove unhurriedly through the historic Natchez City Cemetery just before its closing at dusk. I urged John on, slightly panicked that the caretaker would slam shut and lock those massive iron gates before we made it back through the confusing maze of narrow snaking streets. The cemetery being void of all visitors added to the anxiety of being trapped in the dark of night in a 300 year old cemetery. That detail surpassed my curiosity so we only saw a portion of the military and Jewish areas and a couple of older historic gravestones before dusk scared away my courage and we left.

Caught the sunset slipping down the river while on the Mississippi side looking towards our motorhome, a supreme Kodak moment.

Morning brought us to Nikki’s Family Restaurant, highly recommended by the RV park. All the patrons were regulars and family members took turns pouring coffee, bringing water, serving meals and including the whole café in conversations…including John and I. When they found out we were traveling the U.S., questions flew around the room. I asked to take a picture and they stopped everything to pose. When we got ready to leave, I got a hug and a “safe travels” speech from grandma. If you are ever in Vidalia, LA, stop and enjoy a meal with the friendliest people in town.

Today we toured three antebellum (pre-war) houses. House rules are distinctly given by the tour guides…”no pictures can be taken inside.”

Loved our first choice of the antebellum houses, six story 30,000 square foot unfinished Longwood mansion, the largest octagonal house in America.

Construction began on this Italian Villa just before the war broke out in 1860 and was being built for Haller Nutt and his wife. The exterior finished just prior to the war before workers fled the North. Only the basement was completed and used for living quarters until Hallers death in 1864 but his wife and their eight children lived on in the basement until her death in 1897.

The totality alone was impressive but the unfinished areas, had they been finished, would have rivaled the mansions of Newport, RI. Our guide was wonderfully knowledgeable and answered our many questions without hesitation, giving its history and availing us to a better understanding of the Natchez area and why the extensive growth of the city. These were the town homes of the wealthy cotton plantation owners.

Silk area rugs, first addition books, antique furnishings, Rosewood chairs, were impressive but brought on sadness as those were some of the belongings I parted with so we could begin our motorhome adventure. Standing in disrepair, the mansion was bought and presented to the Pilgrimage Garden Club by the Kelly McAdams Foundation, Austin, TX in 1970.

Rosalie Mansion’s most impressionable element was the huge U.S.S. Mississippi ships bell that is mounted in the back yard. John threatened to ring it, against my pleas, before the tour. Afterwards the tour guide gave him permission to do the ear shattering deed while I watched. Two rings, one for himself while smiling ear to ear, second ring for me so I could take the picture.

The mansion was built in 1823 for Peter Little, a wealthy cotton broker and his wife. Sadly, he died a few months after the mansion was finished but his wife and children lived on in the house until 70 years ago when the house was purchased by the Mississippi State Society Daughters of the American Revolution who continue to maintain and operate the mansion as a historic house museum.

The pre-Civil War mansion served as Union headquarters for the Natchez area from July 1863 on. During that time, his wife and daughter lived in two upstairs bedrooms while the balance of the furniture was stored on the fourth floor under lock and key.

On a portion of the grounds is the site of the Natchez Indians’ 1729 massacre by the French at Fort Rosalie.

Stanton Hall, or Belfast as it is also known, is an antebellum Classical Revival mansion built during 1851-1857 for Frederick Station, a cotton broker. He purchased an entire city block on which to build the mansion and the hike up the drive offers an imposing view of pre-war society and their fortunes. Stanton was only able to enjoy his home for one month before he died. After his death, the Hall housed a college for young ladies for a short time, then fell into disrepair and was purchased by the Pilgrimage Garden Club and was renewed to much of its former splendor. This was the most complete mansion that we visited but the top floors were not available to tour as they were still being revamped.

Housed in the 1890’s building on the grounds of Stanton is the Carriage House Restaurant serving guests since 1946. We missed its re-opening, after having slight repairs, by one day.  Guess we will just have to come back.

St. Mary’s is a magnificent Basilica. Strange seeing such an extravagant Catholic church in Mississippi where the Catholic religion is not foremost.

Very much enjoyed visiting with the parishioner who was also our guide. He spoke of the decline of the Catholic church since the Basilicas completion to date. Building began in 1842 and took 40 years to complete. Stained glass windows were beyond impressive and the ceiling was, in itself, a work of art. We enjoyed the reverence and peaceful quiet, taking in all the infinite details of the church.

Back to the motorhome to ready LilyPad for the next leg of our trip, Red Bay, AL.